Minggu, 13 November 2011
Terasa ingin MATI
terasa sesak di dalam dada, kayaknya ada batu tajam yang tertelan dalm rongga mulut ku, susah untuk memuntahkanya kembali, hari ini mmg sangat berat, hidup ku sangat kesepian, begitu banyak kebohongan yang telah terucapkan di mulut ini, namun hati ini yang susah untuk berkata jujur, bahwa saya lemah, tidak berguna, dan sangat munafik. kenapa ini bisa terjadi, apa ini sang MAHA HEBAT?? apakah ini cobaan atau lawakan semata. kekasih ku jangan lah engkau bosan dengan ku. aku laki2 pengecut kasihku,
beginikah rasanya anak terlantar ?. cerita ini mmg panjang, jika di urai pasti mulut ini bisa berbusa... kenapa, kenapa, kenapa..?? itu yg sekarang ada di benak ku.. maafkan semuanya, maafkan kelakuan saya. saya ingin kalian paham dengan saya, bahwa saya ini ingin berusaha... coba dukung saya, janganlah sibuk untuk kenikmatan sesaat.. pesan ku buat beliau,
beginikah rasanya anak terlantar ?. cerita ini mmg panjang, jika di urai pasti mulut ini bisa berbusa... kenapa, kenapa, kenapa..?? itu yg sekarang ada di benak ku.. maafkan semuanya, maafkan kelakuan saya. saya ingin kalian paham dengan saya, bahwa saya ini ingin berusaha... coba dukung saya, janganlah sibuk untuk kenikmatan sesaat.. pesan ku buat beliau,
Rabu, 16 Maret 2011
Art to Support Japan
As you may have heard, there's been an 8.9 earthquake and tsunami devastating Japan very badly. The whole world is trying their best, to support and help over this terrible disaster. Even the design community has risen to do their part.
James White aka Signalnoise
Rob Dobi
Ars Thanea
Leukocyt
TypCut
Steve Schiavello
Zac Neulieb
Renan Valadares
Hannes Beer
"Art is not in some far-off place. A work of Art is the expression of one's whole personality, sensibility and ability" by Shinichi Suzuki (1898-1998)
James White aka Signalnoise
Rob Dobi
Ars Thanea
Leukocyt
TypCut
Steve Schiavello
Zac Neulieb
Renan Valadares
Hannes Beer
Sabtu, 12 Maret 2011
The Multi-purpose Lomography X-pro 200
Are you looking for a film that you can use in sunny or dimmer conditions? Or one that will produce awesome shots when you shoot doubles with another lomographer? The search for that multi-purpose film stops here with Lomography X-pro 200!
The Lomography X-pro 200 is a product of Lomography and is made from the original Agfa RSX 200 emulsion. It is a slide film that comes in both 35mm and 120 versions, perfect for your beloved LC-A+ or Diana F+. It was the first film that i ever tried and I bought the 120 version and tried it on a Diana F+. I love the yellowish-green shifts in my shots after cross processing the roll. The best part is that Lomography X-pro 200 has a higher iso of 200 so you can still use it in cloudy conditions. However, the color shifts would not be as strong as seen below.
Since i had a positive experience with the 120 X-pro 200, I decided to give the 35mm version a try. I got a roll and went on to shoot a doubles with another lomographer, Chikumumu. I love the shots that came out and the yellowish-green shift was not out of control to ruin the double exposures.
If you have not tried the Lomography X-pro 200, go get either the 35mm or the 120 version and try it! I am sure you would not be disappointed.
The Lomography X-pro 200 is a product of Lomography and is made from the original Agfa RSX 200 emulsion. It is a slide film that comes in both 35mm and 120 versions, perfect for your beloved LC-A+ or Diana F+. It was the first film that i ever tried and I bought the 120 version and tried it on a Diana F+. I love the yellowish-green shifts in my shots after cross processing the roll. The best part is that Lomography X-pro 200 has a higher iso of 200 so you can still use it in cloudy conditions. However, the color shifts would not be as strong as seen below.
Since i had a positive experience with the 120 X-pro 200, I decided to give the 35mm version a try. I got a roll and went on to shoot a doubles with another lomographer, Chikumumu. I love the shots that came out and the yellowish-green shift was not out of control to ruin the double exposures.
If you have not tried the Lomography X-pro 200, go get either the 35mm or the 120 version and try it! I am sure you would not be disappointed.
Lomo Case for No Mo' money
I built my own lomo case out of an old luggage and leftover foam pieces. It is free, cheap and I had it customised to myself and my cameras, and did I already mentioned it's free?
First find a sturdy, lightweight case..(second hand store, mom’s closet?) I used 70’s hard case luggage. Something you won’t hate carrying around.
Second find Hard yet pliable foam. Try your local hardware store, the bigger, the better. Larger stores go through more foam and custom cut it for customers needs, and are likely to have “extra pieces” for free. While your there, pick up some contact cement or spray glue. Think of your Dad’s got some in the shed.
Alright construction time. Measure the case, measure and cut the foam to fit the case. (2 layers of foam to fill the entire bottom cavity) Glue the bottom layer in whole. Don’t glue the top layer yet, lay out your cameras and accessories the way you want them and trace it with a pen. Next, it’s cutting time. Cut out all your holes carefully using a box cutter.
Final step is to glue the top layer as well as the layer for the lid and we’re done. Let’s wait for the glue to set for a required amount of time.
Now we can carry our precious Lomo cameras with confidence no matter what the location or conditions you’ll be.
First find a sturdy, lightweight case..(second hand store, mom’s closet?) I used 70’s hard case luggage. Something you won’t hate carrying around.
Second find Hard yet pliable foam. Try your local hardware store, the bigger, the better. Larger stores go through more foam and custom cut it for customers needs, and are likely to have “extra pieces” for free. While your there, pick up some contact cement or spray glue. Think of your Dad’s got some in the shed.
Alright construction time. Measure the case, measure and cut the foam to fit the case. (2 layers of foam to fill the entire bottom cavity) Glue the bottom layer in whole. Don’t glue the top layer yet, lay out your cameras and accessories the way you want them and trace it with a pen. Next, it’s cutting time. Cut out all your holes carefully using a box cutter.
Final step is to glue the top layer as well as the layer for the lid and we’re done. Let’s wait for the glue to set for a required amount of time.
Now we can carry our precious Lomo cameras with confidence no matter what the location or conditions you’ll be.
I Ain’t Afraid Of Ghosts! (Tips)
Self portraits are a great way to experiment and learn and pretty easy once you get over being camera shy! Plus you can just be goofy or express yourself any way you’d like.
This will be a rundown of how I do long exposure transparent self portraits, I’ve dabbled a bit and after one of my self portrait photos was chosen as “Photo of the Day” I thought it would be fun to do this tipster and share my techniques.
The basics needed for a long exposure self portraits are;
camera
tripod
release cable
Now my first attempt was a long exposure transparent, or ghost self portrait. Not having any guidelines I “winged” it. Lacking correct exposure time the resulted in muted details, but I knew I could do better. It was a stepping stone.
From this I got a better idea of timing. Using a 400 ISO color negative film, Fuji Superia X-tra to be exact, in moderate indoor lighting provided by a ceiling lamp with 2 60 watt bulbs and a frosted diffuser, I achieved a satisfactory self portrait with my Holga 135. Now these are times based on the amount of light in my room, your results may vary, as I do not have a light meter to have gotten an accurate reading.
Now for the details. Set your camera up on a tripod with a release cable to lock the shutter. Set the stage for your photo.
Step 1
Once you’re ready to go, engage and lock the shutter with the release cable, count down 5 second.
Step 2
Move yourself in position in front of the camera and hold your pose for 10 seconds.
Step 3
Go back to the camera and count down 10 seconds before releasing the cable to close the shutter.
Thats it, you’ve done your first self portrait! The more you practice the more you’ll have a better sense for the proper length of time to leave the shutter open based on the film speed you’re using and your lighting conditions.
Good luck, have fun and Lomo On!
This will be a rundown of how I do long exposure transparent self portraits, I’ve dabbled a bit and after one of my self portrait photos was chosen as “Photo of the Day” I thought it would be fun to do this tipster and share my techniques.
The basics needed for a long exposure self portraits are;
camera
tripod
release cable
Now my first attempt was a long exposure transparent, or ghost self portrait. Not having any guidelines I “winged” it. Lacking correct exposure time the resulted in muted details, but I knew I could do better. It was a stepping stone.
From this I got a better idea of timing. Using a 400 ISO color negative film, Fuji Superia X-tra to be exact, in moderate indoor lighting provided by a ceiling lamp with 2 60 watt bulbs and a frosted diffuser, I achieved a satisfactory self portrait with my Holga 135. Now these are times based on the amount of light in my room, your results may vary, as I do not have a light meter to have gotten an accurate reading.
Now for the details. Set your camera up on a tripod with a release cable to lock the shutter. Set the stage for your photo.
Step 1
Once you’re ready to go, engage and lock the shutter with the release cable, count down 5 second.
Step 2
Move yourself in position in front of the camera and hold your pose for 10 seconds.
Step 3
Go back to the camera and count down 10 seconds before releasing the cable to close the shutter.
Thats it, you’ve done your first self portrait! The more you practice the more you’ll have a better sense for the proper length of time to leave the shutter open based on the film speed you’re using and your lighting conditions.
Good luck, have fun and Lomo On!
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